Secondhand Clothing Myth Debunked: Insights from Mozambique

The debate over the impact of secondhand clothing (SHC) on local manufacturing is gaining traction, especially as discussions about environmental sustainability intensify. A recent report by Consulting For Africa (CFA) and Abalon Capital Limitada, commissioned by ADPP Mozambique, sheds light on why the SHC industry is not only vital but also beneficial for Mozambique and similar economies in the Global South.

The Importance of Secondhand Clothing in Mozambique

Mozambique, ranked 183rd out of 191 countries on the United Nations Human Development Index, is one of the world's poorest nations. With about 25% of the population unemployed, the SHC industry emerges as a crucial lifeline. Some of the significant contributions of the SHC sector include:

• Employment: The industry supports over 200,000 formal and informal jobs, directly benefiting more than 1 million people.
• Income: Established vendors earn an average of $650 per month, significantly higher than the national minimum wage of approximately $90.
• Basic Needs: SHC meets the clothing needs of at least 85% of the population.
• Public Finances: The sector contributes around $35 million in taxes, funding essential social programs like education and healthcare.

Critics argue that SHC imports undermine local manufacturing. However, the report refutes this by emphasizing the cultural and economic significance of clothing reuse in Mozambique. The SHC industry is not about "dumping" foreign goods; instead, it integrates into local traditions of passing down and repurposing clothing, supporting a sustainable lifestyle.

Former Mozambican Prime Minister Luisa Diogo highlights that the SHC industry is not merely about providing clothing but offers dignity and opportunity. It sustains families, creates jobs, and generates significant tax revenue, underscoring the importance of economic diversity for Mozambique and Africa's growth.

SHC and Global Sustainability Debate

The report stresses the need for informed global policy discussions that consider the SHC sector's role in developing economies. Balancing environmental goals with economic realities is crucial. Policymakers should understand the entire SHC value chain, ensuring that sustainability efforts do not disadvantage low-income countries.

The SHC industry has transformative effects, particularly for marginalized groups like women and youths, by providing employment and upskilling opportunities. Restricting SHC trade without considering its impacts could inadvertently favor large exporters of fast fashion, such as China.

A Call for Balance 

The future of SHC imports requires nuanced policy dialogues that integrate climate change, waste management, and sustainability. The report calls for a balanced approach that safeguards the SHC sector's viability while advancing global sustainability goals.

Contrary to the common misconception, secondhand clothing does not threaten local manufacturing in Mozambique. Instead, it is a cornerstone of economic resilience and social well-being, offering a model for sustainable development that aligns with the broader green economy objectives of poverty reduction, inclusive growth, and sustainable development.